极致奢华 Christian Dior 07/08巴黎秋冬高级定制服
7月2日晚，法兰西的凡尔赛宫里灯火通明，仿佛回到17世纪的波旁王朝。在这里，一场比玛丽王后的华服更奢丽的高级定制服秀正在上演。全世界最美丽的姑娘们都约会于此，Gisele Bundchen， Naomi Campbell， Amber Valetta，以及Linda Evangelista，身穿现代风格的裙装——这些灵感取自于考克多、毕加索、雷诺阿、德加和戈雅众多油画作品中的设计品，显得分外耀眼。 这一次，John Galliano用华丽高贵的高级定制服系列为Dior 60岁生日献上了一场瑰美的大礼，他从20世纪上半叶的一些画作、时装插画、和摄影作品中获得这一季的创作灵感，而在这些唯美的服装背后，又隐约透出些许挽歌式的庄重气氛，原来，Galliano也要用这一场秀向两位将自己全部生命奉献给时装界，却早早离开人世的人物——Christian Dior先生和今年4月在这场show准备期间突然辞世的设计师Steven Robinson致敬。时装秀在一片安达卢西亚民间音乐的背景声中进行，模特们面部粉妆白色，重现着毕加索的《小丑》，劳特累克的《La Gouloue》中人物造型，其中后者的创作灵感，取自于一个红磨坊的舞女身上。开场便是浓浓的记忆味道，Galliano带我们回溯到1947年的New Look革命，蜂腰、大圆裙摆，极致的阔型是二战后女性服装剪裁里程碑式的改变。设计师用艺术化的笔调将Dior天才般的想象力延续，黑色的套装在紧收纤腰后在胯部陡然蓬开夸张的弧度，象牙白色的裙装腰段以上是飞翼般耸起的夸张肩线……:c%C R:[ ~ E-@ ~ n
随着show的演进，色彩也逐渐丰富起来，从略嫌苍白的粉色到鲜艳的紫红、冰蓝、鲜橘和孔雀兰，Galliano通过缎面蓬裙和紧身胸衣马甲的丰富层次来完成不同色彩的渐变和过渡，或是鲜美的手工制立体花朵，也成为衣摆上生动的点缀。色彩在Galliano的手中成为玩味的元素，从印象派的写意而柔和的光感，到荷兰派结合了现实主题和象征意义的巴洛克艺术风格，到前拉斐尔派强烈的构图和精彩的色彩质感，再到西班牙画派的浪漫神髓，他在时装铺展开的画布上挥洒得游刃有余。 R0N#a0klH&\G
除了鲜明的Dior印记，对了解Galliano西班牙背景的人来说，不难发现这一季设计中暗藏的个人风格，这一点从整场发布会弥漫的佛朗明哥音乐可见一斑，所以，这也是他创作精神上的回归。当他身着斗牛士服和粉红色长袜充满斗志地终场亮相时，一贯的作怪腔调背后，也流露出他作为设计师感性的一面。
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[[i] 本帖最后由 money3250 于 2007-10-8 21:50 编辑 [/i]] 不错！辛苦了！
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